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Vintage Coin-Op Arcade Collecting & Repair Logs

Fixing Afterburner —

Today, I replaced the bushings in my Tempest spinner assembly so I don’t have any more “BRRrrrrrRRRRR” noise.

But the majority of the day was spent getting an After Burner machine that I paid too much for working. First of all, I am an idiot. I paid way too much for this machine in the condition it was in. I will be much more cautious when buying games from now on. I’ll be consulting my friends at KLOV from now on concerning what I should pay instead of assuming all of the other collectors may swoop in and steal my prize. ;)

To give you an idea of the types of things that were wrong, about 80% of the screws for the machine were missing or replaced by incorrect standard screws. Sega uses metric screws in all of their games so this can be extremely problematic. The stick had been rewired because the previous owner apparently didn’t realize that flight simulator games reverse the vertical movement on the yoke or flight stick to give the user a more realistic feel. If you’re a flight sim player having this one detail reversed is murder on your game play. In addition, all of the mounts for the flight stick motor were completely gone. Someone had taken a piece of metal, jammed it between the control panel and the motor and tied a ground wire around a hole in the motor to keep it from moving around.

The day I picked this up, the exact same game went up for sale in much better condition for $175 less than I paid. I decided I would try and appeal to seller and explain to him what I discovered after I was able to strip the machine down. Though when I contacted him and explained everything–I got the standard “A deal is a deal” attitude followed by accusations of “How do I know this stuff didn’t happen when you moved it?” Seriously? What a colossal jack wagon.

Feeling defeated, my first inclination was to part it out. I posted a “Make me an offer” thread on KLOV but I kept receiving less than desirable offers on the parts for the machine–which discouraged me further. After a much needed pep talk I decided should just cowboy up and make this thing work. After all, I do enjoy the game. It was a favorite of mine in the late 80s.

I went to the hardware store and bought about $50 in bolts, screws, washers and other misc parts. I spent 5 hours and it’s up and running. Solid. I still have probably $20-$30 more to put into it.

Repairs: (So far)

  • He had used standard bolts in several places. There was even some cross-threading I had to re-thread.
  • Stick motor mounts were completely missing. Used a set of washers cascading down from very large to size 4 hole and secured the back side of the mount. I’m surprised the motor still works since there was literally nothing at all holding it in place.
  • Secured the front side of the mount with two 5mm bolts on the underside (both missing.)
  • Removed the cage. There was one screw holding the cage to the base. The rest were in the bottom of the machine or in the coin bucket. I put the dip switches back to defaults (1 coin, 1 credit, normal difficulty) and reassembled the cage putting all of the screws that belong back in.
  • Rewired the vertical pot for proper flight sim behavior. (Up is down, Down is up.)
  • Replaced two missing screws in stick’s conduit/cowling.
  • Left coin chute was damaged due to the fact that was how they preferred coining up the machine. They had bent the pin that detects the coin and nearly wrecked the clear plastic housing that protected it. Also at that time I replaced both 25 cent mechs with .900 token mechs. (also had to repair one of my mechs so that slowed the process a bit.)
  • Replaced missing screws for the top of the bezel. (There was one screw holding it in.)
  • Replaced both 555 25 cent lamps.
  • Prettied up the empty holes in the smoked plexi bezel with some nice plastic black plugs.
  • Used Novus 3, 2 and 1 to try and get the big nasty scratch out of the plexi. I’ll need to apply and reapply a few more times but I spent a good 30 minutes on that process alone and my arms were tired.

Next:

  • Replace the handle’s mismatched bolts and screws with proper sized matching metric hex key accessible bolts.
  • Repair missile launch button. It works but the spring is broken inside so there is no spring action on the button.
  • My washer solution for the base is temporary. I bought a piece of heavy gauge sheet metal and I intend to cut a new piece, drill the proper holes and mount it under the wood base for the stick.

(Monitor looks washed out but it’s just the camera.)


WG6100: Only displays graphics in lower left corner.
Deflection Board Model: P314 —

I recently ran into a problem with my WG6100. It only displays graphics in the lower left quadrant:

 

Han: “Our position is correct, except…no, Alderaan!”

Luke: “What do you mean? Where is it?”

Han: “Thats what I’m trying to tell you, kid. It ain’t there. It’s been totally blown away.”

Luke: “What? How?”

Obi-Wan: “Destroyed by the Empire.”

 

I checked voltages on the PCBs and on the Star Wars boards themselves including the ARII Power Supply board. I swapped both the PCB boards with some that mostly work (no tie fighters) and a spare working ARII and same issue.

The first step was to discharge the monitor and remove the neck board and deflector board.  The deflector board that I’ve got in my 6100 is a model P314 with the Atari-sanctioned daughter board upgrade.  The P314 looks a lot different than the other deflection board models used in the 6100 and this is my first monitor repair–so I’m at a bit of a loss as I go through the repair process.

The boards were caked with grime, dirt and dust so the first thing I did was washed them up with soapy, warm water.  I tried to keep water out of the connectors and neck board socket so as not to be surprised later with a new problem.  Just to be safe I baked them in my convection oven for a short time on low heat to evaporate any excess water on the boards.

I also have a Bob Roberts WG6100 deluxe kit, but I’m really stumped because it seems like some of the parts in the kit don’t fit my deflector board. For instance, his kit says to replace IN4750 27v Zdiodes at ZD100 and ZD101 but those locations don’t exist on my P314.  Turns out after reading the WG6100 Color Vector Monitor Guide/FAQ those locations have been renamed R104 and R105 respectively.  Also his kit says to replace the Orn/Orn/Brn 330ohm 1/4 watt resistors at R102/R103–but they’re not in my kit. Also, the replacement 4700uF 50V caps don’t have three legs like the originals do so I don’t know if that’s a problem…

There is mention of a similar problem on page 34 of the guide:

Symptom: Display bad only in lower right quadrant
Distorted image, which exists ONLY in the lower right quadrant of the display.
I have seen this several times and the problem has always been a bad ZD101. Much of the time
this causes R101/Q101 to fry and spot killer comes on.

Last night I spent an hour cleaning the neck board and deflector board.  The next couple of hours, I checked all traces and solder joints. I ended up repairing one suspect joint and re-soldered the brown wire on the neck board that had come loose.  I also replaced a resistor in the R101 location.

***Update***

So after talking with a couple of guys over at KLOV, I figured that problem had to be related to the quadrant issue listed in the 6100 monitor. Mine was the opposite corner–but what the heck–it’s worth a try, right?

So here’s a few additional things I did:

  1. I replaced the 1N4750 ZDiodes at R104/R105
  2. I replaced an additional resistor at the Q101 location.
  3. I replaced the transistors at Q100/Q101 with uh oh….Let me ‘splain! No wait, it will take too long. Let me sum up: The picture is there except… it’s shaky. Think I may have installed an incorrect transistor! CRAP! Back shortly.**time passes** (I literally went back to fix that as I was typing there.) Another quote came to mind as I was typing above and running to my machine to fix it:
Quote:
“I just got this bucket of bolts back together! I’m not gonna let something tear it apart!” ~Han in ESB

AWESOME.

I had just realized I installed TWO MPSA06 transistors, quickly dismantled and:

  1. I replaced the transistor at Q100 with one MPSA06
  2. I replaced the transistor at Q101 with one MPSA56As long as I was at it I also replaced:
  3. 2x 4700uF 50V Caps on deflection board.
  4. 2x 470uF 50V (formerly 35V) Caps at C102 and C103

Plugged it in…
Flipped the switch…
Heard the clicks…
BAM. Perfect picture!

 

MY FIRST MONITOR REPAIR AND IT WAS A SUCCESS! (Not to mention my first solo monitor discharge.)

I am elated.

–Update–

 

Two weeks later the same section blew out.  It ended up being the transistors on the chassis.  I replaced all of the 2N3792 PNP and 2N3716 NPN deflection transistors and then I ended up adding an LV2000 board to replace all of the low voltage components.  It’s been months now and the monitor hasn’t stopped working.

I also added an LV2000 to my Tempest afterward–just as a precaution.